Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long Day 2: Sewing the Collar

TDD Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long links:

Introduction

Day 1: Preparing the Pattern
Day 2: Cutting Out and Collar Assembly (that's today!)

Welcome to Seaside Sailor Sew-a-long Day 2! Is your pattern printed and ready to go? Did you choose your fabric? Great! Let's get ready to cut.

Yesterday you chose your dress size based on chest measurement. Now let's look at height and length. If your dress wearer's height is in the same size range as their chest measurement, you get off easy! Just cut that size! If their height falls in a different size range than their chest measurement simply cut the bodice and skirt length in accordance with their height. For example your may cut a size 3 width according to the chest measurement but a size 4 length.  You may find it helpful to use a highlighter and mark the width and lengths you need to cut for your skirt pieces.

There is one last pattern option to consider before cutting out your dress.  Jen and I really brainstormed some extra sweet pattern variations just for this sew-a-long.  Yesterday I showed you a lace tie option.  To go with that, I am also going to show you how to make these simply sweet hem pleats.  They really add a fantastic detail to this dress!  I highly encourage you to try them.  If you would like to make hem pleats in your dress, add three inches to your skirt length.

Historically pleats similar to these were added the hem of girls dresses when they were first made and would be let down as skirts got to short!  What a great way to get more wear from your beautiful dresses.  Even if you don't plan to let them out with time, the detail adds a perfect vintage charm to Jen's amazing vintage inspired sailor dress!

I've made three versions of the Seaside sailor for the sew-a-long. Here are my fabrics I used.

Fun red and blue fish for the 4th of July.
White collar with red collar lining.

Main yellow print here is Riley Blake Simply Sweet Rainbow Swirls.
Red is for the collar and green for the ties

Floral main fabric is part of the Mary Rose Collection from Quilt Gate
White collar and lace for the ties.

Each of these dresses is unique in their own way.  I love them all! Nautical, cute and fun, sweet and frilly.

Let's get to cutting! These are the pieces you should have cut when done:

• Two bodice fronts and one bodice back in your main fabric 
• Two bodice front and one back piece in lining material  
• One main collar, one collar lining, and one collar from interfacing 
• One tie strip for girls sizes or two bow pieces for baby sizes 
• If you are using lace as I did cut a piece of lace the same length as the tie strip.
• I used two layers of lace for extra fullness.  One was 4" wide and the other was 1.5" wide. 
• Two skirt pieces for girls; only one for baby sizes.

Today we are sewing the collar.  Grab your main collar piece and set the rest aside.  

The trim options are nearly endless for this amazing collar.  Several are outlined in the pattern plus I'll show you a few more here.

• Rick Rack is traditional on nautical inspired dresses.  One or two rows look great!    

•  Jen shows you in the pattern how to apply bias tape with mitered corners.  

• Any other flexible trim can also be used.  It is important that it be able to bend around the front curve of the collar.  I love this box pleat ribbon trim from Hobby Lobby.  It adds a great texture.  

• You can also add lace or piping to the edge as you sew the collar together.  

• And finally (the last pattern modification for you), I'll show you how to add sweet scallops the the bottom of your collar.

I have just a few pointers for how to best apply each trim option.  

• I use a fabric marking pen to draw my placement line.  I used Jen's suggested placement of 1 1/2" from the edge.  
• A thin line of washable school glue will hold your trim in place for easy sewing.  It's as easy as gluing your trim in place then setting the glue with a few seconds under a hot iron.  You could also use a washable glue stick to help hold your trim for sewing.  

• If adding piping or lace in the seam remember that the seam allowance is 1/2" and place your trim accordingly.  You may want to baste this in place before layering your collar pieces.

If you want to add scallops to your hem follow these simple instructions.

These are the tools I used.  Ruler, 2" circle tmeplate, and Frixon Pen

• Mark the center of your collar
• With a fabric pen mark the 1/2" seam allowance on the bottom and side of the collar.
• Use a small round object or template for perfect shape.  I used a two inch template.  A can of tomato paste would also work!  The size of your scallops is up to you!
• It is easiest to mark your sewing line for scallops instead of marking a cutting line.
• Place your first scallop (half circle) centered on your center line of the collar and with the bottom edge touching the 1/2" seam allowance line.
• I next placed a scallop on each corner again aligning the edge of my template with the 1/2" seam allowance markings. 
• Now fill in the remaining space.  On my size two with my template there was only one more scallop on each side.  You may have more depending on both the size of your collar and size of your scallops.
• You may have to adjust the overlap of your half circles a bit to fill the space evenly.

Sew your selected trim in place and lay the collar lining and interfacing right sides together with your main collar.  Sew according to the pattern.  If you are sewing scallops remember that the line you marked is your stitching line.  Sew with your needle in the down position and raise your presser foot to pivot your fabric every two stitches.  This will help give nice rounded curves.  If you are still having trouble try using a slightly shorter stitch length.

Clip the corners and notch the curves as per the pattern.  This is essential to a crisp turned collar.  If you sewed scallops those need clipped and notched too!  Clip into the point where each scallop meets.  Then notch the curves of the scallops.

Turn you collar and press it will.  I use a pointed object such as a knitting needle or a thin flat ruler to help press out crisp corners and rounded scallops.  

Remember to topstitch your collar.  This will keep it looking nice and crisp wash after wash and provides a
professional finish.

Congratulations, you are done for today!  Head over to the Tie Dye Diva Sewing Pattern group on Facebook and check in on the daily sewing thread. THERE WILL BE A GIVEAWAY HAPPENING THERE TODAY!  Ask your questions there (don't be shy!) Jen, Erica and myself will be ready to help all we can!

Tomorrow we will sew the bodice together.  See you back here then!